Posts Tagged ‘chocolate’

in search of “1888”

January 11, 2009

(Updated 13 03 2014) In my previous post, I have provided reviews of Bremen’s Hachez chocolate, or at least of some of their products. We are unfortunately left with a feeling of high-cocoa deprivation and turn, saddened, to other options. One of these, as I have written earlier, is the brand 1888 by the Malmö chocolate factory (link fixed 13 03 2014. English page here).

This is a small company that specializes in no-nonsense high-end chocolate making, and boasts of being the only Swedish chocolate manufacturer that make chocolate “all the way from the cocoa bean.” I have now tested a little over half of their assortment and have only noted highest points, even for the Christmas-flavored kind (julchoklad med glöggkryddor). Many of Malmö Chokladfabrik’s kinds have a cocoa content of 70% and are conched for a looong time. Their quality is consistently very high; smooth and balanced, and none of that coconut-fibre taste that seems to characterize some of the other fancy kinds of niche chocolate. So how does one get hold of this extraordinary stuff?

Here in Borås, there is Berg’s, of course, right in the center on Stora Brogatan:




hachez chocolate – ups and downs

January 11, 2009

There are various ways for me to introduce the Bremen chocolate manufacturer Hachez here. Of course, I have mentioned their products before. Since I was born in Bremen, I am naturally partial to their chocolate and their philosophy, but there is more to their excellence. A production process that includes a conching time of 72 hours is a good starting point for an exceptional collection.

The ups

As a child, I was not really aware of Hachez being special – let’s say that a child’s perception of sweets is, well, different. Hachez was something on grandma’s coffee table, distributed in minimal quantities and accepted with a munching smile of regret (is there not more of it?) – it never really entered my world in the same massive way as the towers of Ritter squares that my other grandmother had assembled for me one Christmas, or the bite-size chocolate bits, called Schogetten, that were the accompaniment to our afternoon teas, as soon as the Ritter squares were gone. I achieved some virtuosity in snatching Schogetten from the plate – the trick was to reduce them before even being noticed.

Aided by the fact that it is not easily obtainable abroad, Hachez has now become my special favorite. Visits to Bremen result in my carrying back piles from their classic “Edel Chokoladen” collection, with a special emphasis on Edel-Bitter-Sahne, Edel-Zartbitter, Edel-Mokka-Sahne. There is nothing better in the world, I believe, than these. (more…)

sweet dreams

April 14, 2008

Last night, I dreamed that I attended a large birthday party. They were just beginning to hand around cakes, brownies, pastry and stuff – lots and lots. I believe I saw about 20 items in huge piles, chocolaty ones, flaky ones and some big bits with thick layers of sugary gleaming icing.

I had just managed to think that I’d better skip most of the powdery brownies (while munching one) and other lesser kinds in favor of the ones with the most icing when I woke up. (more…)

high-end chocolate: the winners – the losers

November 28, 2007

As a result of a steady trend of the last fifteen years or so, high-cocoa-content chocolate has become widely available. In the late 1990s, the Swedish customer still had to rely on a few special addresses until one particular chain store took three varieties of a French 86% cocoa-content brand into their assortment. In 1999, Wegman’s in Ithaca, NY, carried many American specialty brands (some of which were really good) but apart from that only the 70% cocoa-content Lindt chocolate. Today, even our local supermarket offers a whole gamma of Swiss, Swedish, Danish and Finnish high-cocoa-content chocolate.

After many years of chocolate addiction I have, among perhaps 30 brands, been able to identify two clear winners in terms of taste and smoothness. I am continuously testing new kinds. The first winner is the German brand Hachez from Bremen with all their high-end non-flavored varieties (including their milk chocolate, which strictly speaking shouldn’t be mentioned here). One warning is, however, necessary: Hachez’s famous and widely exported 77% Cocoa d’Arriba comes in rather many varieties, not all of which are honoring the excellent standard of the “Classic” unflavored kind. Especially their chocolate with peanuts has an unbalanced, rough taste that reminds of old peanuts found between the cushions of the TV chair. (more…)